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Kiss Me Quick Hematite-Based Red Bronze-Age Lipstick Uncovered In Iran

15/2/2024

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A vial of Bronze Age lipstick is seen left, with a microscopic view of its contents right. Photo: M. Vidale F. Zorzi.
A vial of Bronze Age lipstick is seen left, with a microscopic view of its contents right. Photo: M. Vidale F. Zorzi.
​The birthplace of civilisation, the Middle East is famous for holding some of the earliest examples of cities, architecture, and civil society. Iraq, Iran, Syria, Greece, and Turkey all boast huge national legacies that reach back to prehistory with only material remains to show the truth. One such material has recently been shown to have originally been a kind of red lipstick. Body painting is clearly not a new thing, with the Romans defining an entire culture as the painted people, or the Picts, however evidence of lipstick is rare indeed. Was it for men, was it for women, was it for children? We probably will never know, although if we can go by historical evidence, we know both genders of all ages have enjoyed using colour to highlight their good looks throughout the ages.
 
The peer-reviewed journal Scientific Reports has recently released an article that explains how a vial of ingredients discovered in Iran has been determined to be a form of lipstick. The Bronze Age was around 5000-3000 years ago from the present day and is noted for the onset of bronze technology that replaced the harder but less malleable stone. The chemical process of combining melted tin and melted copper together to form this stronger and shiny alloy gave toolmakers a distinct advantage in harder-wearing and more universal implements. The military and the artists both found many new ways to utilise this useful metal mixture. A new age of thinking had begun with people choosing to experiment with mixing and making from raw ingredients, the understanding of the world had grown significantly since the days of sticks and stones. So, it’s not surprising really that some people were experimenting with colours and paints.
 
A joint effort from science teams based in Tehran and Italy has identified a mixture of colours and base materials that seem to have been made for the lips. The item was found back in 2001 when a Bronze Age graveyard was flooded by the swollen Halil River in Iran’s South-eastern Kerman province. A trove of artefacts was uncovered by the natural event and were quickly rescued by archaeologists for safe-keeping and inspection. The small vial of material was handed over to the Archaeological Museum of Jiroft, who were able to date the object to around 1900 BC. The green Chlorite vial is in superb condition and shows superior craftsmanship. The sleek design and pencil like shape is so far unrepresented in the main body of literature however the shape strongly resembles cosmetic items of the modern day. An image from the Turin Papyrus 55001 shows an Egyptian woman holding a vial very similar to the one found while painting her lips.
 
The contents of the vial were also tested to determine what they are made of. It was found that the main elements of the container were ground crystal, including galena, hematite, quartz, braunite, and anglesite. The lead-based galena would not be permitted in anything for the body today. The hematite comprised the majority of the mixture, lending the deep red colour. The other minerals were given to provide sheen and durability. It's not known if the vial was made for men, women, or both, however the fashion of wearing red paint on the lips seems to be something that will never be replaced. 

Something to read and put on the table - Face Paint: The Story of Makeup Hardcover by Lisa Eldridge

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